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From the Rector: Pilgrimage to Iona
Having been planned for over a year, five people from St Peter's and one from St Philip & St James' travelled to Iona and stayed at the Abbey from 22nd September for a week. None of us had visited before and so it was a new experience to visit that tiny island, only 3.5 miles long by 1.5 miles wide. We stayed overnight in Glasgow going and reached Iona via Mull on the Saturday just as it was getting dark. There were no false illusions from the very start - this was not a retreat, but was about building community. So most of us slept four to a room, served and cleared up after meals, cleaned toilets, washbasins etc. The island, and the views from it, are wonderful, but the history takes the place to a different dimension. St Columba landed there in 563, bringing Celtic Christianity to mainland Britain. He and his successors faced immense challenges over the centuries, not least attacks from Vikings. Even today the ferry lands at Martyrs' Bay, the place where 80 brothers were killed as the invaders came ashore. Their faith, however, always led them to continue travelling to share what they believed was important and they were very influential in Christian development in Scotland and Northern England. The medieval Abbey, which had at times served as a Cathedral, fell into disrepair after the Reformation. Interest grew in restoring it in late Victorian times, but major steps forward only took place when a Minister from Glasgow, George MacLeod, decided that it could be restored using unemployed workers and clergy in training in the 1930s. Work continued through to the 1970s and it has become an ecumenical centre for pilgrimage and healing, linking prayer and worship with justice and peace. The 'Community' uses Iona as a base, but members live and share their faith up and down the country and across the world. Iona remains a place of worship, hospitality, refreshment, renewal and healing with thousands going to visit, live and work there in the spirit of Columba. Here are some of the immediate reactions of those who made up our group: "As we stepped onto Iona, we were greeted by a group of smiling faces. "Put your luggage on the trailer and walk on up to the Abbey". We set off on our pilgrimage the previous day and were glad to arrive on this beautiful place of quiet and tranquillity. The days were set by twice daily worship - and sitting in the Abbey with its rough-hewn walls - one felt a sense of timelessness and peace. Delicious meals were enjoyed with folk from around the world. Time to enjoy walks, beautiful beaches, a lively ceilidh, singing and reflective discussions. Silence shared with a friend in a pool of candlelight. Thank you God. Amen." (Lesley) "Just a few words on Iona, Paul asked, and what an ask! Some things are not easy to put into words, and the Iona experience is one of them. Iona is one of those special places where the distance between matter and the spiritual is reduced, as Lottie told us, to a 'thin place'. We were asked on our first night to introduce ourselves and to say one word that summed up our reason for coming; mine was 'listening'. The bidding before the Bible reading in the first worship later that night, 'Listen for the word of God', confirmed for me why I had come.
So where did I listen for God? Certainly in the worship, it was a pleasure to be with people where the divisions between different faiths and races seemed irrelevant. The worship was varied, moving, challenging, and entertaining; paper planes, plaiting, and the memorable moment when the worship leader had to run down the nave to suggest the pianist stop so we could start the service! We enjoyed the friendship and fellowship in both the organised sessions and casual conversations in the residents' lounge and at mealtimes. They were full of laughter as well thought provoking. Other memorable points were: sharing a room with two bubbly sisters from Bristol who talked in unison even in their sleep; the entertainment at the Mac Centre where Paul, Anne and Jeremy featured, the part of the pilgrimage around the island where Biddie was struggling to be serious reading to us with the loud noise of a cow eating grass just behind her. Although we were living in close proximity it was easy to get away and be alone, either around the Abbey in the early morning or walking to the beautiful beaches in the day. Listening to and being in the silence gave me a real feeling of peace. The St Peter's group went one last walk together to the North Beach in the sun which seemed a fitting end to our pilgrimage." (Chris) "Here to remind me…. first a caricature puffin mug. Otters, puffins and seals were the three teams for chores and thrice daily meals. I was a lunchtime puffin. My morning instructions read: 'Spray, scrub, flush, wipe'. No prizes for guessing what that was! Secondly, three surf smoothed pebbles, one marble white, one
black, one mottled with red. A reminder of the varied worship in the
ancient stone built Abbey. Finally, what was here at home unrealised: a tiny photo taken from a boat, labelled "Iona" in my father's handwriting. It fell from a box of honeymoon photographs, 1937. A place of pilgrimage over many, many years." (Mary) "Pilgrimages are spiritual journeys and they tend to start with an actual journey. Our own pilgrimage to Iona took two days of travel to arrive at the Abbey. First to Glasgow by train and a night in a hotel; train the next morning to Oban; then the ferry to the Isle of Mull; a thirty-seven mile bus ride across Mull; then, finally, a ten minute ferry across the narrow strip of sea to the Isle of Iona. It was a relief to arrive at the jetty at 6pm and to enjoy a blessed ten-minute walk up to the Abbey. Supper followed almost immediately in the large hall with eight tables that can each seat 12 people. Our day ended with the evening Service in the great Abbey church. By bedtime we had already been divided into teams each with their own daily duties. It worked very well. I shared a bedroom with a visitor from Manchester and found we had much in common. I was surprised by the beauty and accessibility of the island. There are wonderful beaches of white sand and the sea is often emerald and purple. Farms are scattered round the island, with sheep and little black cattle. Flocks of wild geese call to each other as they swirl in to land, take off again, reassemble and come to rest in another bay. We had some wonderful walks. There are 90 residents on Iona. A good many live in the little village by the jetty. Iona was not as remote as we tend to think. In fact, in St Columba's time it was on the main sea route from Ireland to Scotland. I wouldn't fancy it in a coracle. The Abbey of Iona is definitely not the place for a contemplative Retreat. The atmosphere sizzles with life and energy. Volunteers, from many countries, contract to spend a number of weeks or months helping in many different ways. Even the Wardens change every three years. The Warden said that 'accountability' is the word that sums up the expectations of the Abbey. (Bound to give account, responsible. Oxford Dict.) This applies to our spiritual lives as well as our daily lives. "I shall remember the highly individual services in the great Abbey church, the lively music, the simplicity of the hymns and the informality of the worship. It feels a holy island." (Anne) On November 1st there will be short Iona-style service in St Peter's at 8pm. Those who have been will be invited to share their experiences and we will discuss the possibility of regular services using Iona material. Please join us if you wish. Paul Wilkinson |
